The Wedding from Okinawa

Hello from Okinawa

Sarah and Hideki were married on the 28th of Dec in traditional Japanese attire. In case you do not recognise the parents, I am in the Samurai kimono and Piki, with her hair swept up, is looking resplendent   in her kimono. Sarah is wearing a distinctly Japanese bridal outfit.

For those of you interested in such details, it was a perfect day with few clouds in the sky. The venue was on a small bit of land made famous by the G8 summit in 2000. Yes Clinton, Chelsea and Cretien were there. The pacific ocean on both sides of the wedding hall created a scene never to be forgotten. The food was distinctly Japanese and the music was very much Rock and Roll followed by more current stuff. Below are the first photos.

Stay tuned for more.

Marcel & Piki

Garden visit and Street Market

As our visit to Tokyo is coming to an end want to make sure that I again visit one of my favourite gardens: Rikugien,


Just to remind us that a wedding is taking place very soon, a beautiful couple is strolling in traditional wedding clothes.


Here is some important info: "The name Rikugien refers to a system of dividing Chinese poetry into six categories" Six: Roku in Japanese. "Riku" is the Japanese pronunciation of the word. China's cultural influence on japanese culture is everywhere: In writing, art, tea ceremony. Yet it is Japan which made it all quite distinctly their own.

From Rikugien we walked to Sugamo dori, and visited quite extensive street market that seems to be mostly visited by older people, just like us.

Our Israeli niece is arriving any minute from New Zealand, more nieces and a nephew are arriving from Israel tomorrow. We are looking forward to show them the wonders of Tokyo.


Our next story may take place in Okinawa...


Piki

Adventures in the Snow

Well, we had this brilliant idea, and was agreed to by our friends, Makko and Akiyo. Let us go up to Sendai and explore this beautiful area north of Tokyo, along the water and into the mountains. We were also encouraged by an accompanying delegation from the Ship for World Youth. Then our friends, Amatzia and Shoshi added in for a Kokeshi doll hunt.


Our clothing strategy was simple, layers, layers and more. Well, as you can tell by the photo, it was not enough. The wind blew, the snow fell and the sun shone. Just like back home. In fact, many of you would think that this was from back home in Montreal, if the population was fundamentally of Japanese origins. Even on days like this, there was a determined trek up to the shrine at the top of the hill. Yes, we were slipping and sliding and slightly cold, even freezing. However, as you have come to expect from our trip there is an adventure around the corner, up the hill.

There was this group heading up to the shrine, all dressed in their winter finest. To my surprise, we were invited in to join a most wonderful ceremony which dates by 800 years. There I was, next to the priest, on my knees, as he chanted on the occasion of the rice harvest. How I managed to keep that position with little pain and much enthusiasm is a testament to the ceremony. This village was part of the area which was affected by the tzunami. The event was moving for both of us and  we were part of it. Wow.


Yes, the snow here is just as cold as back home.


Marcel

Like Marcel, I was moved by the rice harvesting ceremony at the temple, a ceremony which has been conducted annually for 800 years!


In spite of my "temporary retirement" I still think like a therapist. I was touched by the head monk's words about the importance of the ceremony in this year, following the devastation by the Tsunami. I was reflecting on how important rituals are in times of pain and loss. The Rice gathering ceremony reaffirms the power of life. In spite of the devastation, life goes on, rice is being gathered and being thanked for in the temple.


Another special experience for us was a Sushi lunch in a restaurant on the coast, which reopened after the Tsunami. The location, Matsushima, was not as badly affected as other areas (The small Islands in Matsushima bay provided some protection from the Tsunami). The chef (in the photo) thanked us for being the first gaijin (foreigners) to come to his restaurant since the Tsunami hit. I choose to believe that our visit gave some hope and encouragement: The tourists will be back!  (I highly recommend it, Matsushima is beautiful!


Oyasoo minesai


Piki

Observations from Tokyo

My observations have little to do with this character on the left. On Saturday afternoon, the Ginza is closed to cars and the serious walkers and shoppers come out. Although the season has no religious or cultural connotation in this country, it appears that Tokyo has embraced the festival of lights and holiday concept with a strong passion. Every major centre in this city has a display which attracts shoppers and gawkers from all over. At one place, Tokyo Midtown, there are tour buses which arrive for the dancing lights show. There stand the tourists, their telephone at the ready (few cameras). It is a bit like Rockefeller Centre in New York. However, much more dramatic and spectacular. 


About the guy in the winter suit. They love their dogs and hate the cold. In fact some dogs have a special carriage. Talk about pampered.


We love our random adventures. The other day, we spotted a poster for an exhibition of Toulouse Lautrec art. We found it thanks to my iPad. But the new museum (opened 2010) was impressive on two aspects. Piki will explain the art. I have to describe the organization. 
There is an entrance on a side street which has no access. Rather than place an impersonal sign, there is a poor freezing attendant advising everyone that the entrance is around the corner. Once you enter the building, there is an impeccably dressed guide every 4 metres simply to show you the way to the ticker booth. From the ticket booth to the exhibition (10 metres) there were at least 4 guides to direct you to the elevators. When asked what do I miss most when I return. Here, we are spoiled with the level of service. Yes, there is a high degree of over employment but it appears to be put to good use.


Last thought. the food halls in the basement of the department stores. Our research on this topic is lacking but who cares. Piki and I have taken to wandering through this wonderland of food. Of course, there is a enormous number of serving staff. But the presentation and variety of foods are a treat to all the senses. It is easy to buy a multi-course  meal including dessert and to do this every day because the choices appear endless. Somehow it heals the knees and back as we head back on the metro to our Tokyo home.


Marcel

Fall in Tokyo or Have you seen Elvis dance

When we arrived in Tokyo we were greeted by some wonderful weather. I mention this because the true pleasure of our adventures around this city is to be able to walk around, randomly go down streets, lanes and the occasional cemetery. 


The down side of this is the effect on the parks in this city. Just like back home, the cold nights and warm days brings out nature's painter's pallet. This year I have to admit that the normally dramatic scenes in the parks have been rendered somewhat boring. Those of you who have followed me thus far may wonder when do I connect the fall to Elvis. 


Well this is Tokyo and one of the most magnificent parks is Yoyogi. All of the parks so far have been beautifully sculpted masterpieces of nature. So despite the lack f colour, we continue to explore. After all, a previous park let us to a king. This time, we have Elvis, rather many of them. It appears that this park encourages self expression. At some point, we come upon some very loud rock music, guys dancing and, wow, there is this group of guys and some girls in leather, grease back ducktails with some really cool moves. This is definitely the peoples park. Further on there is the frisbee guys, badminton afficinatos, drummers, random guitar players, and, yes, boot dancers. As you can see, culture in Tokyo is not limited to the few and select, it is for every one.


One last weather comment, there is no snow but today the cold winds hit with a vengeance. I guess the message is there, go inside and shop. Issey Miyake, here we come.


Good night and stay warm


Marcel

Multivehicles Adventure

On Monday morning we left for a day tour to Hakone, the most popular destination for "us', residents of Tokyo.Beautiful Hakone has so much to offer: Hot spring resorts, mountains, lakes, and breathtaking views of Mount Fiji. But as far as i am concerned, Hakone Open Air Museum is Hakone's number one attraction (ichiban).

But , before we reached the museum, we had to travel for 1.5 hour from Tokyo to Hakone on a train, appropriately named:Odayku Romance Car.

From Hakone Yumoto we transferred into a delightful, mountain climbing,two car electric tram that winds its way through forests and over streams and ravines. The red maple trees added enormously to the beauty of the ride. The trip took lasted about 45 minutes, and we disembarked in the small station of Chokoku-no-Mori, where the famous Hakone Open Air Museum is located.The museum's showcase presents primarily 20th century sculptures, in a spectacular setting of glens, gardens, ponds, meadows and mountains.There are 400 sculptures on display, among them 25 pieces by Henry Moore. It would have been so nice to spend the whole day in this spectacular setting,  but there is so much more to explore. (my advice:  Spend at least 2 days in Hakone, or if you have only 1 day, spend it in the Open Air museum!)

Back on the choochoo train from Chokuko-no-Mori to Gora. In Gora we hopped on a 9 minutes cable car ride, to be followed by a 30 minutes ropeway gondola's ride, to be followed by about 30 minutes boat ride on lake Ashi, searching for the best view of Mount Fuji. Alas, by this time Mount Fuji disappeared into darkness.

This is not the end yet. There was still a bus ride, back to Hakone Yumoto, followed by 1.5 hour train ride to Tokyo.

The moral of the story: sometimes my energetic personality works against me. But the memory of the beautiful museum is etched in my brain

Oyasuminesai

Piki

Wedding and Tea Ceremony

The background to our current Japanese adventure is the anticipation of the upcoming wedding of Sarah Pinchevsky and Hideki Aniya. With wedding thoughts in our heads, we seem to often spot young couples who take their wedding photos in beautiful surroundings, wearing traditional Japanese clothes. It represents to us how the Japanese society, with all its modernization, still maintains its strong sense of culture and tradition.
This sense of maintaining tradition and culture in a modern society is best represented in the practice of the Tea Ceremony. On this visit we felt very privileged  and honoured when we observed and participated in two Tea Ceremonies.


The following quote resonates with how I felt when entering the Tea Ceremony Room:
"If you experience a small intimate tea gathering as a guest, the cares of the world will start to lift as soon as you walk on the moist stepping stones of a garden, sit at a covered waiting bench and rinse your hands and mouth at a water basin"
Both of our wonderful hostesses live in modern apartments, therefore the above mentioned activities took place indoors. But I definitely felt lifting of worries, sense of calm and peace, as soon as I entered the Tea Ceremony Room and sat on the tatami mat.


I realize now that participating in a traditional tea ceremony in a modern apartment is a microcosm of modern Japan where modern life and old time traditions peacefully coexist.


The 2 photos introduce you to the clothing, setting and utensils of the tea ceremony.


The elegant lady who is conducting the tea ceremony solo is Marie Takahashi, our friend Nahoko's mother. Takahashi-san introduced me to the Tea Ceremony on our previous visit to Japan, and this time I was re-invited with Marcel. Her elegance and generosity are treasured by us, 


Many thanks to Takahashi san and the other wonderful sensei (teachers), for sharing your Tea Room with us


Arigatoo Gusaimasu


Piki

Temples and Gardens

Being the scholastic one in our couple hood,  I do have the need to provide more context to Marcel's description of our Shikoku adventure:


Shikoku, the smallest of Japan's 5 main island is known for its coastal beauty, the friendliness of its inhabitants,  and the excellent taste of the sanuki udon (noodles),


But its main attractions are the 88 temples and the beauty of Ritsurin Gardens in Takamatsu.


First: the famous noodles: Our friend Tomomi took us to a factory, owned by the same family for over 100 years, where noodle making machines are being manufactured. The market is mostly in Asia, but we have been told that just recently a chinese couple came from Montreal to train and purchase one of these sophisticated machines, to be installed in their Asian restaurant in Montreal.


Second: the temples:For more than 1000 years pilgrims have walked clockwise  around Shikoku's 88 temples. This 14oo km journey is Japan's best known pilgrimage and its oldest tourist trail.

Third: the divine Ritsurin Gardens: Nothing pleases my eyes and soothes my soul, more that a Japanese garden (well, except seeing my kids, husband and friends..) Ritsurin- Koen in Takamtsu is definitely  one of the most beautiful grades in Japan. It dates from the mid 1600s  and it took more that a century to complete.  We spent there an afternoon, and how thrilled I was to discover that on the week on our visit, it was also open at night. So after brief rest here we came back, to witness the magical beauty of a lit garden.


Next gardening report: after we visit the garden in Yokohama (Dec 10)


Piki

Magic in Tokyo

There is magic in Tokyo, and it is not the decorations which are popping up all over for the Christmas season. Around the corner from our place is the Suntory Hall. During our last stay, we never had the time to grab an event. This time we scored tickets for a Jose Carreras recital, first balcony, front row. The hall itself is small by most standards, a gem with great acoustics. Since it was a recital there was just him and his piano player. On he strode, a legend and a voice. Initially I started to be somewhat disappointed. He looked old, although he is my age and his voice appeared somewhat weak. But what do I know. As the evening progressed he showed the merit of his reputation, the Hall became magic as he appeared to be transformed into the younger version of himself. As expected, the recital ended and we were in awe. But he kept coming on stage and performed one encore after the other. Women rushed the stage with flowers and gifts after each encore. His arms were always full as he strode off stage, and the women, who seemed to fill the hall, were jumping up and clapping with strength and enthusiasm. The encores lasted almost as long as the performance. We then left the jewel of the concert hall onto the plaza decorated for the coming season. There was magic in Tokyo last night.


Last weekend we returned from a week on the isle of Shikoku, the smallest of the main islands of Japan. Our friend, Tomomi, was wonderful and generous as he introduced us to the highlights, both well known and secret. We shall try to touch on the highlights. I will let Piki choose her favourites. Here are a couple of mine.


We stayed overnight at Kotohira. There is this shrine which is at the top of 1378 steps. 

Without the power of our morning espresso, we decided to cheat and took a taxi to a half way point at the side of the climb. There was no doubt that Piki would make it but, yes, I kept pace. Who needs the club when this regime is available. Needless to say, the shrine and the view from its gardens were breath-taking. No, it was not the climb which knocked me out. We then started the climb down the 1378 steps. At first I felt good as I noticed a couple of people who used the carry service. Yes, there are these guys who, for a fee,  put you into a palanquin and carried you up the stairs. Then we met the pilgrims. Here is the youngster going up the 1378 steps. I do need more exercise.


In this town we stayed at a Ryokan, a Japanese country inn. The weather was not far from that of Montreal but no snow. The main room was heated but the toilet and shower were not. There lies  a true conflict of emotions.


I will leave you on this entry with a Japan story. We were invited by a local business man to lunch after he showed us around the garden off his home (400 years old). There we sat feeding ourselves and the world shook, yes shook. Of course, Piki and I were the only ones who noticed anything. Earthquakes seem like the occasional rain shower to those around the table.


Tonight, I am invited for a reprise of last year's LBS alumni presentation. The crowd appears to be smaller, but no matter, I am one year smarter. Stay tuned for more from Japan.


For those who forgot, Sarah and Hideki will be officially married on December 28. 


Best to all,


Marcel

Adventure with a King

The title is somewhat of an overstatement. Our plan for this trip was to be wherever we can and enjoy the moment. 


Well there we were, wandering around some of the best shopping in this city. We stopped for gioza and said "let us go up to the Meiji-shrine" a place which we just never got to in 2 months of our previous visit. The shrine is a shlep from the entrance but the walk is beautiful and the temple a magnificent destination. Getting there was somewhat confusing as the place was crowded with security, dignitaries, and monks rushing around . What gives? The answer to the question is in the photo above. The king of Bhutan was dropping by for a visit. Initially the best photo op I could find was behind a few heads. We got lucky in that the royal tour was a circle around the temple. As a result, those at the back found themselves at the front. What you see is not a zoom, I could just about reach out and shake hands. However, as you can see from his posture, it would have been awkward. It does prove the old photo adage, always have the camera ready.


We are back in our old apartment in Tokyo, surrounded by the same friendly and hospitable crowd. To my surprise, they did remember us. Being here was much like returning home, the warmth was there. 


For those who are curious the effects of the earthquake. We did ask many and looked around to see if there was any changes. The glass building next to our apartment did not have a crack. Every one commented about the shaking building, but Tokyo suffered no visible damage. I am uncertain as to where the electricity comes from but the lights are now shining brightly as ever. The one noticeable effect was a sharp increase in marriages. We shall check-in on the number of births at the appropriate time.


The first week was a pleasure as we connected with many of our friends. More to come as we move on to Shikoku.


Now to Piki, 
Best wishes
Marcel


This is Piki: Just to add that seeing the king of Bhutan in Japan is significant, considering the fact that both Bhutan and Japan are probably our favourite travel destinations. Both countries, that seem so different, share a long history of seclusion and isolation. From our experience, in both country there is now a desire to learn about the "other" while at the same time old time traditions are being kept. It is therefore meaningful that we met the Handsome king of Bhutan and his entourage, while he was praying in a very important Japanese shrine.


Until the next posting,
Piki

Back home in Tokyo

Yes, Piki and I are back on the road once again. Here we are at the start of another adventure, Day 1. When we last left Tokyo, I had little inclination that we would be back so soon. However, the wonderful fortune of Sarah's upcoming marriage to Hideki brings us home. Our flight from Toronto landed on time, right into a major friday afternoon traffic jam into Tokyo. We are here and welcome all of you to join us on this wonderful period as once again we go around the world.


For many of you there may be a curiosity about what our second home looks like. Well, in truth, the flat is too small for any photos but the view from our terrace is awesome, particularly on this beautiful fall day. This is day 1, a bit quiet but more to come.

Home and Snow

As most of you know, we are back home.

Our adventure is somewhat like this photo at the Jaffa port. In a similar manner, the sun is setting on this, most wondrous adventure. Therefore, let me share a few thoughts.

We are thrilled to be back. After all, Montreal is home, where we both find our zone of warmth and comfort, our friends who have tracked us across the globe.

The first days back were much easier than I expected as we dove into getting some order into our lives. The house was cleaned, broken things repaired, and most importantly, we re-connected with the guys in Montreal. You may ask, have we changed? Time will be the best judge. We did start on one important element which we learned in Tokyo. Less clutter and fewer things is good. We spent a few hours cleaning out closets, cupboards, and shelves. After all, these were not used for over 3 months, do we really need so much stuff?

In a closing comment, I am reminded that the photo can just as easily be a sunrise on a next adventure.

Best wishes and heath

Marcel and Piki

Journey's end, more adventure

We have moved our base of operations from Tel Aviv and our apartment overlooking old Jaffa, to Eilat, overlooking the gulf of Eilat and the mountains of Jordan. 

Before we left Tel Aviv, we were exposed to the most creative culinary experience, I do emphasize creative. The handsome devil to the left, wielding the latest in Israeli hi-tech kitchen utensils, is our nephew. He was able to get us ring side seats (at the bar and kitchen) for a truly special and unusual restaurant. Salon is open only 2 days a week, with only 2 seatings each. The head chef, Eyal Shani, is a local hero and food philosopher. This place functions like a experimental laboratory for his various ideas about food, ingredients, service and ambiance. Even more impressive is the contribution of his team to the results. 

The restaurant is more than the fresh produce and cooking. They use laminated cardboard to serve certain dishes, creuset pots for an awesome "chraimer" fish dish, hand-crushed spices beaten into a beef carpaccio. The latter is literally crushed with a mallet at your table by one of the chefs. The menu varies according to the fish catch and old city market meats and vegetables in Jerusalem. 

The kitchen is cramped into a tiny space behind the bar. The chef and his sou-chef work elbow to elbow with the other 3, each focussed on his dish. Eyal even prepares the bread dish and pita himself. No shouting, no yelling, no ego. Earlier in the day, I was fortunate to spend 4 hours with the kitchen as they prepared the various dishes. After 2 hours, everyone stopped as Daniel, the sou-chef served out the pasta lunch at the communal dining table in the middle of the room. That dish, which I shared with the team, would put many other restaurants to shame. The tomato guy showed up with fresh produce and stayed for some leftover pasta.

Later we arrived for the 9pm sitting since we were advised that was when IT was happening. A short background first. During the preparation, great classical music is played. Just right to inspire the soul. During the evening, the music does not overwhelm. However, after 9, the DJ showed up and started to  gradually pump up the adrenaline. By 11:00, the diners were on their feet, dancing to the music between servings. Everything seem to merge together into one happening, the dishes, the wine, the music, the staff and most importantly, the diners. When Afik (my nephew) first described the "happening" I thought that it was another Israeli middle-eastern insanity. It is and it works brilliantly.

For those of you who are mildly curious about health and safety. You are right. It would not pass. But who cares. Salon is culinary creativity to the maximum.

Marcel

Tel Aviv is cool (warm beaches)

We are now well established in our new apartment in Old Jaffa. Now that the storms and other annoyances have passed, we are now able to enjoy some time with family, friends and even a few strangers. The photo is the local bakery that makes the greatest Israeli sesame bagels. A neighbour up the street does awesome baklava. Both are called Abulafia. The centre of Jaffa (or Yafo) is wall-to-wall shops selling great tasting stuff like shakshuka, shawarma, sweets and ice cream. There is no subtlety to food in this neighbourhood. Portions are generous, leading me to finally share my plate with Piki. Even then I am in definitely in need of the many kilometres of walks each day.

Slowly we are adjusting our attitude and radar to Israel and the Mediterranean mind set. Between this flat and central Tel Aviv, we pass through neighbourhoods going back to the origins of the city. It is a constant reminder of the paradox of this country. On many levels, this is a very modern society. On the other hand, between Jaffa and the new Tel Aviv, we pass through very old shops using merchandising techniques which disappeared with the Industrial Revolution. The flea market of Old Jaffa does not sell fleas but close. The rejects of our garage sales in Montreal somehow find their way to the square. Nahalat Benjamin is a twice a week market of new artsy stuff and some eye popping jewelry. The Carmel market crowds fruits, vegetables, bras and after-shave into some very narrow streets. The noise, smells and bustling crowds sharply remind you of where you are. All this is within the half-hour walk from our place to the very sophisticated capital and financial centre around Rothschild Boulevard.

As I bring this brief episode to a close I notice that the days of our adventure are quickly drawing to an end.  We shall endeavour to squeeze in as much as we can but I shall digress for a brief comment. To all of our friends back in Montreal, prepare the wine glasses. We do miss you and look forward to seeing you in January. Can we just arrange a quick thaw and warm weather.

Marcel

Gardens and Falafel

It has been a few days since we left Japan for Israel. Our apartment is in Jaffa, a stone's throw from the Mediterranean, across the street from a beautiful park, behind the tall minaret which is the local landmark and around the corner from some of the best falafel and baklava. When we first arrived, we sat on the terrace, drank some tea, and took in the beauty.

For those who have read about storms across the Middle East, do not be deceived. The white which you see is not snow. This was only at the beginning of what felt like a typhoon and hurricane rolled into one. Very much like in Montreal, we were stuck for almost 24 hours as the wind and rains battered the city. A cover of the window storm curtain blew of into our bedroom. The repairman showed up at 9:30pm. He was really busy that day. Only a few more hours and we revert back to more traditional sun and sea with no heating. What a return.

We installed ourselves on Friday and spent the the past days on a  number of important tasks. The normal and fun stuff of connecting with family and friends, walking the Tel Aviv boardwalk (before the storm), eating (portions are much bigger), and adjusting to the local culture. As Piki keeps saying "We ain't in Kansas". Apologies to Dorothy and the Wizard of Oz. Perhaps we should put it another way, it is a different Kansas.

Marcel

Mata Ne - Au revoir to Tokyo

Unlike previous writings, this last one from Tokyo is a joint effort. Although I may not easily move to the next grade in Japanese class, I did learn to say "mata ne", a term much less permanent than "sayonara" when saying goodbye.

Today was our last one in this wonderful city. We spent most of the day packing our non-essential stuff into a 10kg box to send home by surface mail. For those of you who plan to do this, be aware. You are now required to itemize the contents, including weight and value. There is a warning that this is an anti-terrorist measure and, if you are wrong, it will be sent back. I do hope I guessed right since we just paid quite a lot of money to ship some sentimental books and mementos.

To all of our new friends, I have but one simple wish, may we become "old friends".

Marcel

The above is a photo of a gathering of friends in our Tokyo apartment last Sunday. Originally, we named the event: "Sayonara (good bye) party" But with the news of Sari and Hideki's engagement, and upcoming move to Japan, we expect to be back soon. We therefore named our gathering " Mata ne (see you soon) party" I also named it "East meets west party, since we ordered Pizza and Sushi for dinner with our friends. My friend Bella suggested that it would more accurate, considering that Montreal is our permanent home, to order Poutine and Sushi. Although there are many gourmet foods in Tokyo it may not be easy to find Poutine. (Especially home delivery) but there is definitely no shortage of Pizza places. There are more Italian restaurants in Tokyo than in New York.

The 2 beautiful young women on the left side are Makiko  and Akiyo . They are good friends of our daughter , but I call them: Watachi no Nihon no Musume (My Japanese daughters. They were both instrumental for our easy adaptation to Japan, acting as guides, translators, recreation directors, and fun and lively companions.

The woman sitting on the right is Dr Sonoe. She is a physician with extensive interests, whose mother was also a doctor. Sonoe''s daughter, Miyako, is a young surgeon, a friend of Sarah. (Unfortunately
she could not attend the party) Miyako, her mother and grandmother challenge to the Western steriotype of women in Japan. Next to Sonoe is Akiyo's mother, who invited us to her home for a very special meal, and good conversation. In the centre are Tomomi and Nahoko and their lovely daughters. The oldest daughter, Yuki, is studying hard for the university entrance exams, and therefore could not attend. In the back are Akiyo's cousin and sister, and Ann and Barry, our Tokyo neighbours from Chicago.

We thanks our friends in Japan for making our stay here enjoyable, interesting, fulfilling, and quite exceptional!

Mata ne, see you all soon

Pnina

Temples, Gardens, and Tea Ceremony

As we are approaching the end of our Japan adventure, I find myself reflecting on what I have learned and experienced.  Is it possible to articulate what has been the essence of our experience, the uniqueness of Japan? I previously described our love of the food, and our appreciation of the friendship and generosity of the people we have met. But what feels so particularly Japanese are the beautiful shrines and gardens and the peaceful and spiritual experience of the tea ceremony.

Tokyo is a city of 20 millions people, with a  gigantic urban landscape. At the same time, it is a city full of many gardens and shrines, beautifully tucked in the midst of glass and concrete. Walking in Tokyo is full of surprises. In the last 10 days, we visited many gardens, and enjoyed the vibrancy of the Fall colours. Red maple trees, yellow ginko trees. The photo above was taken at night in a beautifully hauntingly lit garden, Rikugoen. We also ventured out of Tokyo, to visit 2 world heritage sites, Nikko and Kamakura, both places are famous for their nature and multitude of temples and shrines.

Experiencing the Japanese culture cannot be completed without highlighting the importance of the Tea  Ceremony:

Tea was first transmitted to Japan from China around the ninth century. In the 14th century tea spread from monasteries to warrior and aristocratic society as an "art of play". "The five sensory pleasures of Tea are as follows: the pleasure of viewing the arts and crafts of the tea utensils; the warmth of the tea bowl in your hand and its softness as you bring it to your lips; the taste of the tea and food; the smell of incense smoldering in the tea room and the sound of water as it is ladled from the kettle, and of the gentle ringing of the gong"

My own introduction to the tea ceremony took place in an apartment, on the outskirts of Tokyo. Our friend, Nahoko, who heard about my interest in the tea ceremony, spoke about me to her mother , who have been learning and conducting tea ceremonies for many years. On this first occasion, I attended without Marcel, since "men need more care and attention when it comes to learning about the tea ceremony". So on one Saturday morning I met Nahoko at a bus station and off we went to visit her mother. Our host looked so regal and gracious in her kimono. Before the ceremony, we were treated to a special lunch, brought to the table on lacquered trays,  served in beautiful lacquered boxes and plates purchased by the family 400 years ago! What a privilege for me! After lunch, we went to our hostess' tea room. I must say I was a bit nervous at the beginning about my clumsiness, but the serenity of the environment, the soothing voice of my hostess, the beauty of the tea bowls (Over 100 years old): all contributed to a deep sense of calm and well being. Only then did I start to understand the notion of staying in the moment, deeply experience it with all 5 senses.

Another important symbol of Japan: The snow capped Mount Fuji. We were so lucky, we were able to see mount Fuji on our visit to Kamakura and share this with all our friends.

Oyasoominesai

Pnina  

Lunch at Paul

No this is not Paul. But now that I have your attention, let me share with you some less dramatic moments of Tokyo.

Paul is a patisserie and lunch place in the Izumi Garden complex where we live. If you think that it is rather an odd name for a Japan. It is not for Tokyo. This city is a awash with French and other bakery shops. These shops are almost as numerous as the restaurants, selling sweet and very sweet eats. For us it is special, since the original Paul in Paris, at the corner of St Paul and St Antoine was the local shop where we would buy our bagette and sweets when staying in the Marais.

Today we had lunch and reflected how our big fear, ordering food and shopping at the supermarket, was merely a creation of our minds. Actually as we ate our very Japanese, bagette and croissant sandwich we were very much at home, in our 'hood.

There are 2 simple restaurant each with a special attraction. The noodle shop is hosted by two hardworking staff. There are a total of 8 seats, nine if you squeeze. The menu is composed of noodles and noodles. You are welcomed by a happy smiling face of   who speaks a very good English, serves, and cooks. Her colleague, cooks and constantly cleans the space.

Nearby, there is a bar-resto which attracted us with the offer of Happy Hours. Cheap drinks. Beer and wine  were the same price as the soft drinks. The background music is cool jazz and the pizza is thin and delicious. Both of these spots gave us a feeling of home and neighbourhood.

We are really at home.

Marcel

End Game in Tokyo

As we are in the last week of our stay in Tokyo, I would like to share some random and diverse adventures and thoughts. To the right is a field on the Kurokawa hills as we wandered about exploring the beauty of a Japanese fall day. For those of you who know me, this is a new Marcel. He walks mountains, stretches his legs in fields covered with nature. The awesome experience here is that we were the only ones walking about. No cars, no people, no animals. The good news, we did not get lost and my knee actually enjoyed the pain.

We are, to some extent, slowing down. Since our return from Okinawa we have stayed close to home, exploring some awesome museums and gardens around this city. Piki will have more to say about this.

Yes that is the adventure couple in the centre of the family shot. This is the LBS alumni evening in Tokyo  and I was the guest speaker. My topic was "What they did not teach us at LBS". Although I was familiar with the topic, it was an intimidating crowd and occasion. The previous session was a Beajolais Nouveau evening. What a tough act to follow, particularly with such a bright, "creme de la creme" crowd. There was even a second generation LBS graduate.

This was definitely another chance for Marcel to strut his stuff. Ask Piki if you want to know how did I do. For me it was a really great honour both to speak and chat with some of the alumni.

A bit of retrospection. The big question at the outset of this adventure was "what shall we do for over 2 months". The real answer is more the opposite. We are now saying, what do set aside since we do not have enough time. Many explorations shall have to wait for our next visit, my writing shall have to wait for Israel.


Sunday night we are having a multi-cultural "until we meet again" party at our apartment. Pizza and Sushi are on the menu for our new friends.
Marcel

Okinawa Peace Memorial

In addition to getting to know our new family, our visit to Okinawa has been educational and emotionally moving.

Okinawa is a tropical, lush, mountainous island. While driving around one may feel they are more in the Caribbean than Japan. What we've learned is that the Okinawans have a distinct cultural heritage. Okinawa became part of Japan in the late 19th century. Prior to that time, the land of Okinawa was known as the RyuKyu Kingdom. The Okinawans feel very proud of their heritage, they have their own language, music, food (Okinawa soba is very delicious, oishi desu!). The Okinawans whom we've met exude warmth, hospitality and "joie de vivre".

While enjoying the Okinawan sun and the beautiful beaches, it is almost impossible to comprehend the suffering that had been inflicted on them during the 2nd World War. Our visit to the Okinawa Peace Memorial was a testimony of their suffering and resiliency.

The most painful period for Okinawa is named "The Typhoon of Steel": In late March 1945 a fierce battle took place on Okinawan soil. It was the only ground fighting (between Japanese and American forces) fought on Japanese soil. The Typhoon of Steel that lasted for 90 days disfigured mountains, destroyed much of the cultural legacy, and claimed the lives of more than 200,000 people. The Okinawans people were victims of both armies. There is a disturbing testimony in the Peace Museum about the Japanese army ordering mass suicide of civilians who were trying to escape the horror of the battle.

What you see above is a photo of the Peace Plaza and the flame of Peace. The simplicity of the flame, and the spectacular view both promote reflection and meditation. While visiting,  we witnessed beautiful ceremonies, conducted by high school children from all over Japan. Another part of the Memorial are the monument walls: These 118 monument walls, shaped like folding screens,  are spread around the Flame of Peace. On these walls, there are more than 200,000 names of the victims of war: Okinawan civilians, Japanese and American soldiers. One of those whose names is Hideki's uncle, who was a young child at the time of his death.

Another part of the memorial is the peace museum, which consists of extensive documentation of  suffering, resiliency and transformation. While visiting, I found myself reflecting and thinking of my visit to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust memorial Center in Jerusalem. When exiting Yad Vashem  one faces a spectacular view of Jerusalem. When exiting the Okinawa Peace Museum, one faces a spectacular view of the Ocean. In both instances  the horrors of wars and destruction are followed by hopes for the future.

Pnina