Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Tel Aviv is cool (warm beaches)

We are now well established in our new apartment in Old Jaffa. Now that the storms and other annoyances have passed, we are now able to enjoy some time with family, friends and even a few strangers. The photo is the local bakery that makes the greatest Israeli sesame bagels. A neighbour up the street does awesome baklava. Both are called Abulafia. The centre of Jaffa (or Yafo) is wall-to-wall shops selling great tasting stuff like shakshuka, shawarma, sweets and ice cream. There is no subtlety to food in this neighbourhood. Portions are generous, leading me to finally share my plate with Piki. Even then I am in definitely in need of the many kilometres of walks each day.

Slowly we are adjusting our attitude and radar to Israel and the Mediterranean mind set. Between this flat and central Tel Aviv, we pass through neighbourhoods going back to the origins of the city. It is a constant reminder of the paradox of this country. On many levels, this is a very modern society. On the other hand, between Jaffa and the new Tel Aviv, we pass through very old shops using merchandising techniques which disappeared with the Industrial Revolution. The flea market of Old Jaffa does not sell fleas but close. The rejects of our garage sales in Montreal somehow find their way to the square. Nahalat Benjamin is a twice a week market of new artsy stuff and some eye popping jewelry. The Carmel market crowds fruits, vegetables, bras and after-shave into some very narrow streets. The noise, smells and bustling crowds sharply remind you of where you are. All this is within the half-hour walk from our place to the very sophisticated capital and financial centre around Rothschild Boulevard.

As I bring this brief episode to a close I notice that the days of our adventure are quickly drawing to an end.  We shall endeavour to squeeze in as much as we can but I shall digress for a brief comment. To all of our friends back in Montreal, prepare the wine glasses. We do miss you and look forward to seeing you in January. Can we just arrange a quick thaw and warm weather.

Marcel

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